By Al Stankus
CNC Correspondent
In step with the season, a new summer menu
has been unveiled and it’s a menu that truly embraces what’s
fresh and is really an altogether different way of eating. Steamed mussels
rest in a coconut milk-lemongrass broth studded with potatoes, scallions
and cilantro. The fried squid appetizer pulls nods from the tropics and
Italy as both cherry peppers and minced jalapenos along with a lemony
vinaigrette surround the crisps rings and tentacles.
A vegetarian chilled celery soup had enough
earthy flavors that chicken stock wasn’t missed. From the luncheon
choices, a bowl of cappelini was listed as coming with baby squash, tomatoes,
sugar snaps all in garlic cream sauce. Moments after placing the order,
the waitress, who would also shine in a later table visit, told us that
the kitchen was out of baby squash and would “regular squash”
be okay? No problem here and a big thank you to her for not slipping the
unadvertised item by us.
This same waitress seeing that I my glass
of iced coffee wasn’t being relished with gusto, simply asked, “Is
the coffee okay?” When I told her that I had the feeling that hot
coffee was mixed with ice to create cold coffee, she smiled and admitted
so whereupon she told me that each morning they make a pitcher of espresso
and chill it for cocktails (further proof that the silly drink phony Martini
craze know no bounds) and would like a glass of that? I took her up on
her kindness and was pleased to note that the bill only reflected one
glass of iced coffee.
There are ten entrées on the new
dinner menu- including two vegetarian dishes- and the kitchen was very
adept with all that were tasted from this and the previous menu. In the
bygone category, pan seared striped bass, no doubt from the Carolina coast,
was cooked to the perfect turn with crispy skin giving way to thick meaty
pieces. On the summer menu, this same pan-searing technique with a thick
halibut fillet added a bit of crust to each aide while keeping the inside
flaky and moist. The fillet set atop a mound of creamy mashed potatoes
came scattered with some crunchy sugar snaps, a handful of fresh peas
and bits of oyster mushrooms. There were no mistakes on this plate of
what was simple, fresh food minimally handled.
The same route of a well-constructed plate
of simple food was found with the roasted chicken and its sides. A little
lemon, some garlic and herbs on the skin and getting it crisp and keeping
the meat evenly moist then finishing it with a distinctive lemon -chicken
sauce took care of the bird while a twice baked potato brought a smile
(happy to see you my forgotten food friend) and a few spears of sautéed
broccoli balanced the dish.
Going way back to the days of the Davis
Square Sea Grill and yes, The Venice, I’ve always liked Davis Square.
Of course it’s changed, and while the crusty wail about gentrification,
others like me are happy that more of our neighborhoods are getting good
neighborhood restaurants. Orleans is a tasty by-product of the new Somerville
and definitely worth a visit even if you don’t happen to call this
part of town home.
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